Restorer's Tips Archive

Out of your favorite furniture polish? You can make your own with this easy tip. Mix two parts olive oil (does not have to be the most expensive!) and one part lemon juice. Pour into a spray bottle or other container. Mix well (it is usually easiest to simply shake the bottle), spray onto your furniture and buff with a soft cloth or cotton rag. Be sure not to over apply or saturate the surface unless your arms are in need of a serious workout! Now, stand back and admire your handiwork! You're done! (January, 2013)


Wicker or cane furniture giving you grief? Many people don't realize that the natural fibers of wicker, cane, and rush furniture will dry out. When this happens trouble soon follows (like suddenly finding yourself seated on the floor!) so keep these pieces out of direct sunlight and away from high heat sources. Dust regularly or even vacuum to get the dust out of the cracks. To keep your cane seats nice and firm, lightly spray the underside only with water. Do Not Saturate the cane. Then, simply use a hair dryer, briefly, to dry the water. The cane will re-tighten and you're ready to go! (February, 2013)


Many times I have clients ask me what kind of oil to use on their furniture. Tung? Linseed? Danish? (Many times I smile and say 'Motorcraft 10w40.' No, scratch that.) Actually, most finished furniture doesn't need oil, it needs wax. Wax will preserve the finish and when hardened, will form a protective barrier as well as keeping the finish pliable. Oil is a finish and overuse will leave you with a saturated surface that will draw and retain dust, dirt, fingerprints, etc. You don't go out once a month and rub paint on your car, do you? No, you wax it to protect the finish. Just do the same for your furniture and everything will be A-OK! (March, 2013)



 Another complaint I hear often is, 'Why are my drawers hard to open and close?' Well, old drawer slides are made of wood and any time you have wood sliding against wood, there must be something to keep the parts lubricated. If your drawers like to stick, simply rub a small amount of paste wax such as TreWax (or any other brand) of paste wax on both the drawer and the wood guide it rides on. In a pinch you can also use paraffin wax. You will be shocked at the difference! If wax doesn't help, very likely the drawer sides or glides are worn down and the piece will need some repair.
(April, 2013)


Here are some tips if you feel like tackling a furniture repair yourself. Do not use nails, inappropriate screws, air nail guns, duct tape, twine, string, metal brackets, coat hangers, pieces of an old belt, epoxy or other 'creative' fasteners. Though it may solve the problem initially, all it really does it just makes things harder for us professionals when you finally bring in it. Glue is usually the best option, but please Do not use any glue other than yellow or white Carpenters Glue or Hide Glue. (May, 2013)


Aerosol furniture polishes are convenient, widely used and highly advertised. However, they are among the worst offenders for introducing silicone oils and other contaminants onto furniture. Most contain solvents that will attack varnish and lacquer. This is why furniture appears very dry a few days after use, which causes you to use more. Sense a pattern developing? Some of the "dusting" aerosols appear to be benign when applied to a cloth and not the piece of furniture, the result is actually similar to using a damp, clean dust cloth. Semi-solid or paste waxes, while more time consuming to apply, are always the better choice.  (June, 2013)


Furniture have a waxy build up? It’s likely a softened finish. Oil from your skin, food, drinks or detergents can break down a finish making it sticky, which in time collects dirt and grime. If the problem is on an area that is frequently touched, try cleaning it with mineral spirits or naphtha. Use a soft rag or #0000 steel wool carefully, and you may be able to get rid of the problem. Caution: if the finish has softened down through the finish, you could end up with bare wood. If the finish has reached this point, there isn't anything else to do other than stripping and refinishing. (July, 2013)



Here are some handy tips for the next time you (or your girlfriend/wife/etc.) go looking to buy chairs. First, with the chair setting as level as possible, place your one hand on the highest part of the back and the other hand on the front of the seat about where your knees would be when sitting. Gently but firmly try to push the chair back and forth to check for stability or what is technically called ‘wobble.’ It the chair moves the joints are probably loose and/or broken. Then turn the chair over and look for any signs of screws or nails. If you see either, it typically means the manufacturer did not trust the joints to stay together. It may also mean that major modifications or unskilled repairs have been made to the chair in the past that may (read: will) cause problems, sooner or later. A professional restoration technician should Never add screws or nails where none were present before. (August, 2013) 


I have had several customers ask about how to remove a musty odor from the inside of their old or antique furniture, so here we go! You will need a spray bottle of denatured alcohol or other anti-microbial spray. Open the cabinet and/or take out all of the drawers. Then spray the entire inside of the piece. This will kill any mold spores that may be hiding. Let it dry opened up in a sunny place 5-7 days if possible. If this hasn't fixed the problem, you will need to go to the next step which is to seal the raw wood with shellac which will effectively seal in the odor. Another approach might be using one of the new products for removing odors from fabrics like Fabreeze, though I still suggest killing the mold spores first. (September, 2013)


I know there are lots of ladies (and some guys) out there who love their potpourri. But, listen folks. Believe it or not, virtually every kind of potpourri will eat the finish off of furniture even while it's in a plastic bag! So save your finishes and don't ever put potpourri directly on any finished piece. Instead, place it in a glass or stoneware dish. Your furniture will thank you! (October, 2013)


For the New Year here are some recommendations regarding buying antique furniture as an investment. The first, best thing to do is simply to be well informed. Read books from the library, ask questions of dealers and collectors, research on the internet but most of all know what you are looking for and what it should be worth. Many times a similar piece may have a substantially different price in another part of the country or even state. Many dealers specialize and you should also. And remember that no one knows everything about everything, so keep learning! On the other hand, if you are buying pieces because you like them rather than as an investment, the only criteria is how much you like it and how much you can afford. (January, 2014)